Knots Guide
Forming a loop
Joining Two Ropes
Last Updated: May 18, 2018
Overhand Knot
The overhand knot is the simplest knot you can tie. It is rarely used by itself but mainly used as a backup knot.
Stopper Knot
The stopper knot on its own can be used to prevent someone from abseiling off the rope. It should always be tied at the end of both ropes when abseiling.
Stopper Knot After Another Knot
A Stopper Knot tied after another knot prevents the first knot from coming loose and slipping. It should be tied after a Clove Hitch, an Eight on a Bight and Bunny Ears if these are near the end of the rope. It must ALWAYS be tied after a Bowline.
Clove Hitch
The Clove Hitch is a versatile knot that can be used in an inline situation, as a finishing knot (with a stopper) or to divide an Eight on a Bight into two separate anchors. It is very easy to adjust, but can be prone to slippage so a stopper knot should be used. The Clove Hitch should always be tied on the basket of the carabiner.
Figure of Eight
The Figure of Eight is tied on the climbing side of a rope making it easy for beginners to tie in quickly.
Eight on a Bight
You can almost get by with just this knot. Always used at the focal point of a top rope and often used near the end of the rope to attache to a carabiner or place around protruding objects. Always make sure that there is enough tail of rope left over to tie a stopper knot.
Inline Eight
The Inline Eight is used to connect two pieces of gear in an anchor and allows you to easily equalize the loads on both pieces. Take note that this knot is directional. You need to make sure you tied it to take the load in the correct direction. Ensure that the bight and the adjacent strand have an angle of less than 45°. If the angle is to big, you can easily make it smaller by moving the knot towards the focal point.
Bunny Ears
This variation on the Figure of Eight is best used to connect two pieces of gear in close proximity. It is easy to adjust the loops by moving rope from one into the other. It can be quite difficult to adjust the length of the strand going into the knot from the focal point, and that’s why it is not a good idea to finish your anchor with Bunny Ears.
Alpine Butterfly
The Alpine Butterfly is another inline knot and can be used in much the same way as the Inline Eight. It has the advantage of being non-directional (can be loaded in all directions), and most people find it easier to tie than the Inline Eight. It is however a little trickier to adjust.
Bowline
The Bowline is useful for tying the end of the set-up rope around larger bollards or trees. A Bowline can readily work its way untied and therefor must ALWAYS be tied off with a stopper knot.
European Death Knot
The European death knot is commonly used to join to ropes of roughly equal thickness. It is often seen when abseiling more than 30 meters when a 60 meter rope would not reach the ground. 1-2 meters of tail should be left when tying the knot and for greater safety a second knot should be tied right next to the first one. The knot should be tight before abseiling.
Double Fisherman's
The Double or Triple Fisherman’s are very useful when joining two pieces of rope or cord, i.e. when creating a prussik loop, or joining ropes for a long abseil. A Fisherman’s is tied by tying a Stopper Knot with two or three coils in each piece of cord around the other piece.
If using Spectra cord for your Prussiks you should always use a Triple Fisherman’s as a Double Fisherman’s can undo by itself.
Triple Fisherman's
The Double or Triple Fisherman’s are very useful when joining two pieces of rope or cord, i.e. when creating a prussik loop, or joining ropes for a long abseil. A Fisherman’s is tied by tying a Stopper Knot with two or three coils in each piece of cord around the other piece.
If using Spectra cord for your Prussiks you should always use a Triple Fisherman’s as a Double Fisherman’s can undo by itself.
Girth Hitch
The Girth Hitch is useful when tying a sling around a bollard or a tree. It can also be used to tie a sling to your harness in order to use it as a safety.
Slip Knot
The Slip Knot can be used to sling a horn (chicken head) of rock. It is handy because you can, as its name suggests, slide it up and down to adjust the size of the loop.
Classic Prussik
Prussik knots are usually tied with accessory cord or a sling around a rope. The idea is to create friction with the knot, which will still allow you to slide it along the rope slowly, but if you fall and load the knot, it will lock onto the rope.
Prussiks work best when they are between on third and half the thickness of the rope they are tied around. Once a Prussik is loaded it should not slip on its own. To move or unload it, grab the Prussik where it is wrapped around the rope and attempt to slide it.
Always remember that with friction you also generate heat. When abseiling with a Prussik you generate more heat the faster you go. Too fast and your 7mm prussik cord will melt.
The Classic Prussik works in both directions. It does not need many coils to be effective but it can be hard to unlock after it has been loaded.
Klemheist
Prussik knots are usually tied with accessory cord or a sling around a rope. The idea is to create friction with the knot, which will still allow you to slide it along the rope slowly, but if you fall and load the knot, it will lock onto the rope.
Prussiks work best when they are between on third and half the thickness of the rope they are tied around. Once a Prussik is loaded it should not slip on its own. To move or unload it, grab the Prussik where it is wrapped around the rope and attempt to slide it.
Always remember that with friction you also generate heat. When abseiling with a Prussik you generate more heat the faster you go. Too fast and your 7mm prussik cord will melt.
The Klemheist only works effectively in one direction, but it is easier to tie and to unlock after it has been loaded. It is the best prussik to use when using slings.
French Prussik
Prussik knots are usually tied with accessory cord or a sling around a rope. The idea is to create friction with the knot, which will still allow you to slide it along the rope slowly, but if you fall and load the knot, it will lock onto the rope.
Prussiks work best when they are between on third and half the thickness of the rope they are tied around. Once a Prussik is loaded it should not slip on its own. To move or unload it, grab the Prussik where it is wrapped around the rope and attempt to slide it.
Always remember that with friction you also generate heat. When abseiling with a Prussik you generate more heat the faster you go. Too fast and your 7mm prussik cord will melt.
The French Prussik is able to unlock when under load, which means you have to be careful using this knot. But this also makes it a valuable abseil backup. A French Prussik requires at least three wraps around the rope in order to be effective.